Friday, 19 November 2010

Bula Vinaka and a warm warm welcome back to Fiji!

It's not always a good idea to go back, things are not always the same, and it had crossed my mind that my intention to go back to Fiji to do it better than the first time, might actually back fire and it could end up a disaster.  But the minute I arrived back at First Landing, I knew that it was a good decision to come back.  Isimeli welcomed me 'home' as I stepped out of the transfer vehicle and before I had even made it down to the reception, I met Joe from the restaurant who immediately remembered me and welcomed me back, shaking my hand vigourously!

Everyone it seemed was glad to see me and I felt very welcome, most of them remembered my name, those who didn't at least remembered my face and that's pretty good going.  After a full on and exciting week in Brisbane, I was happy to have a couple of days of rest at the resort before my cruise and had no major plans but I met Tony who runs the diving school on my first evening and we discussed me doing an introductory dive the following day!


So I joined the dive boat at 7.30am which took me over to Beachcomber Island, a party resort which is the home of the dive school and I would be there for the day until the boat would bring the workers back to the mainland.

The dive itself was pretty spectacular!  After a training session with DVDs and then practice in the pool, they took us out to a nearby reef and put us in the water to firstly feed the fish then to explore the reef.  I had a little trouble with buoyancy to start with and at one point, started floating back up to the survace with no way to get anyone's attention, until someone grabbed my foot and dragged me back down again!  But the fish feeding was brilliant and it was great to get in amongst the coral.  People the day before had seen sharks but there were none when we were down there, which may actually have been a good thing!  They would have only been reef sharks, not great whites or anything truly scary, but I was happy with the experience.  There were a couple of guys on the dive who were staying at a nearby exclusive island resort called Navini so I hopped on the transfer boat which took them back to have sneek peek.  It was lovely although so exclusive there was nothing else on the island, I don't think it would be the place for me for 2 weeks straight but perhaps a good honeymoon destination!


In no time, it was Monday and time to check out and join the cruise.  Alex, the manager of First Landing had called ahead to Tim Stonhill, the CEO of Blue Lagoon to let him know to expect me so when I arrived at the Blue Lagoon check in, Tim was there waiting to welcome me and this time, had upgraded me to the Orchid Deck.  Hooray!

I was pleased to know that Bhim was again going to be our cruise director and got a huge hug from her when she spotted me.  She did tell me she thought she would never see me again after the hash they had made last time and was surprised that I had returned to soon, as was Sefa, our barman who was serving drinks in the check-in lounge.  



On board, my luggage was waiting and again, there was a bottle of champagne waiting for me in my cabin.  A nice touch!  To begin with on the first afternoon as we made our way from Lautoka to the Yasawa Islands, it seemed quite hard to speak to people but Sefa and Tom had me sitting at the bar with them and soon I was chatting to people as they came to get their drinks.  I did wonder at that point whether the group would gel as well as the first cruise, but in no time it became apparent that this group would be even better, if that was at all possible.  While enjoying cocktails on the sky deck that first night, I was approached by Cory one of the Stewards who informed me that I had been invited to join Captain Saula at his table for dinner.  What an honour.  He is a lovely man although really very shy, he did a welcome presentation to all the passengers then sat down at the table with us and told us that he dreads having to stand up in front of us all, no matter how many times he had done it before.  

The following day was actually the best day we had all week weather wise, the sun was shining in the morning and it was dry.  The rainy season had come early and although it was warm, we didn't have the blue skies I had enjoyed when I was there before.  It was still warm but the sun make such a difference to the colour of the water and the snorkelling.  There had been a drought in Fiji for some time before however so I was pleased for them that rain was on the cards. 

The snorkelling was still brilliant, and this time, I had invested in a point and shoot underwater digital camera to record some of the excellent corals and fish and the photos came out really well so it was a worthwhile investment.

The wednesday night was 'Make a Hat' night and this time, Apenisa was not on the boat to make a hat for me so I decided to make one similar to the one he had made me before and collected some drinks cans before asking someone with a machete to cut me a coconut frond.  Alas, I left my things on the beach while snorkelling and those things were retrieved for me and taken back to the boat when the heavens opened.  My things were waiting in my cabin, the cans had been recycled.  So I resorted to a 'Melbourne Cup' inspired fascinator using fresh flowers I had collected from the island.  Although in the end I think it looked more like something that had come from Mardi Gras in Rio!

Spot the fish!


The following day was the visit to the school and from then on, it was all new ground as I passed the point when I had been disembarked last time.  All very exciting and new beaches to visit.  Much more snorkelling, more gorgeous fish and corals, an octopus in a hole in a rock and a flat fish which was so well camoflaged, I almost trod on it!
Sea Cucumber, very squishy!

Large clam






 Thursday night was cross dressing night where most couples opted to wear each others clothes which was quite entertaining and it has to be said many of the men made very convincing women!  I struggled a little until  I asked the first officer for some help and he handed me a shirt complete with epaulets and a very large pair of shoes.  My feet didn't even touch the sides so walking was a bit of a challenge.  Carol, a lady from New Zealand who was on her 20th cruise had borrowed a shirt from Captain Saula so we made a fitting pair....and we both won prizes.


Our last full day of the cruise was to be spent at the Blue Lagoon and a day on the private island of Nanuya Lailai where there would be more snorkelling, fish feeding, fishing and the crew would prepare a traditional lovo feast which is meat cooked underground using coconut husk embers.  The food was to be served to us on the beach and the final night celebrations would be a beach party and bonfire.   That was if the weather permitted and sadly, the last day was the worst day weather wise and it rained all day.  It was raining as those of us who were keen enough went out in the dark for our early morning swim and after breakfast as the MV Mystique Princess was backed up close to the beach and tethered to a coconut tree, it still hadn't abated.  It didn't dampen our enthusiasm however, it would be wet when we got in the water after all!
Me and the MV Mystique Princess tied to a coconut tree!

First activity of the morining was fish feeding.  The crew took all the left over bread from the week in a huge bin liner, some spectators watched from the tenders and the rest of us got in the water with sorkels and it was a real feeding frenzy!  We were suddenly surrounded by fish everywhere we looked, all different colours, shapes and sizes seemingly unafraid of us.  Mikia, one of the crew seemed to think it was amuzing to throw bread at me, I put my head out of the water to see what it was and when I looked back down into the water, there were fish right in my face.  Such a lovely experience.

Shortly after, we were treated to a demonstration of how to husk a coconut as this was the main activity for the crew who were preparing for the fire to start cooking the meat.  They made it look so easy but I think its actually a bit more difficult than it looks!  We were all invited to try some of the lovely fresh coconut whcih was delicious.  After that it was still raining as we had morning tea and after that more snorkelling.  

After lunch a group of us were taken out fishing, although that was an unsuccessful trip, noone caught anything but it wasn't really the right time, the best fishing is apparently first thing in the morning or last thing at night.  Disappointingly the rain got heavier and the wind got up so the ship was moved away from the beach and at 5pm we were all brought back on board for the last time to have our cocktails and dinner on board.



 



The meal was delicious.  The meat was so tender and just fell apart and I also tried something called Kokoda (pronounced Kokonda) for the first time.  Its chunks of fish which are soaked for 24 hours in lime juice then marinated in cocnut milk with small tomato and cucmber mixed in.  So the fish isn't cooked, just 'cooked' in the acid of the lime juice.  Delicious and if you ever get to Fiji, then try it, its out of this world.


I became honourary Fijian that evening for the singing competition.  Each country represented among the passengers had to form a group and sing a song from their country.  The Australians sang the 'Vegemite' Song, the Kiwis sang 'Po Keri Keri Ana', the Califonians sang 'California here we come' and I chickened out as I was the only English person so joined the Fijians for their national anthem.  Throughout the week we had established that the Fijians are enthusastic when it comes to singing and they can make some noise when they all get together so although I didn't know the words to their anthem, it was quite incredible to be standing in amongst the crew when they started singing.  Amazing.


Then there was dancing and we all tried to stay up as late as we could to make the most of the last night, all the while the rain was still coming down!  Captain Saula had planned to leave the blue lagoon before daybreak the following morning due to the weather so when I woke up cold at 4.30am the following morning, I could hear things going on outside.  Since it was warmer outside than in, I got dressed and went out to see what was going on and hopefully get some photos of the sunrise but as soon as I got outside, there was a lot of activity and the engines were being run independently of each other, then a tender was launched and I realised something was wrong.  


Overnight, the two anchor chains had become twisted and they were unable to get them untangled.  We were effectively stuck.  They sent a diver down to help resolve the issue, but in the end they had to get the blow torch out and cut one of the chains.  All very exciting in the dark and the rain.


Much as I was hoping that we would be stuck there indefinitely, we got under way while breakfast was being served.  Because of the time, the course the Captain took was more direct than he had planned, straight across the open water and it soon became quite choppy.  Lots of people were feeling a little queasy and there was a line of them sitting out on the back deck watching the horizon.  As we docked in Lautoka, the crew farewelled us with the song Isa Lei and Captain Saula thanked us for a great week and then it was time to disembark.  Hugs and kisses all round from the crew, then with all the new friends I'd made.  


No doubting, it was definitely a good decision to come back, it had been better than the first time for sure, despite the weather.  And given that it was better but not perfect, I have threatened to go back and do it right in the sunshine next time! 

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